Senegal Food Tour: 24 Hours of Unforgettable Cuisine | Epic Food Journeys with Mark Wiens | Nat Geo

[Mark Wiens] Welcome to Dakar, where the food is not only spicy and delicious... Oh, yeah. ...but it represents the hospitality of Senegalese culture. Jerejef. [laughter] I've got 24 hours to explore. From colorful fishing communities... The fresh catch of the day. ...to busy street food stalls... Pape, what have you done? ...we're going to taste the authentic Senegalese dishes that are packed with flavor and that bring people together. [Pape] Brother from another mother. ♪ ♪ [Mark] Dakar is the capital of Senegal, a city alive with bustling markets and colorful beaches. Located along the Atlantic Cost, Dakar sits at the westernmost point of the entire African continent. With a dark history as a departure hub during the transatlantic slave trade, today, Dakar is a symbol of resilience and pride, because Senegal was one of the first countries in West Africa to gain independence. And that spirit of strength lives on through its art, music, and culture. And at the center of it all is food. Bold, flavorful, and often shared with friends and family. It’s 7:00 AM, it’s a beautiful day in Dakar, Senegal. And we have a lot of big meals coming up, but first we're starting in the quiet neighborhood streets for a breakfast on the go. [Mark] Oh, what a place. It doesn’t get better than this. Chef’s table for breakfast. And she has all the different dishes here. I came for the ndambe, the black-eyed peas. And I just love their smiles, their friendliness. Can I have a pain ndambe, please? Oh, nice, all the bread is ready to go. During the French Colonial period, the baguette became a staple in Senegal, and it's still a breakfast favorite on the streets of Dakar, loaded with your choice of fillings. The mayonnaise goes in, and you can see the ndambe, the black-eyed peas, look like it's stewed down with onions. Oh, with the hard boiled egg, into the sandwich. A little bit of pepper goes in. Oh, a squirt of the chili sauce and mustard. Ah, ketchup. Okay, we’ll take it all. Oh, yeah, I love her friendliness. [speaking foreign language] -Jerejef. [Mark] And then we need a drink, too. We need a beverage, some of the Senegalese herbal tea. Ah! We’re ready for breakfast. Oh, that’s delicious. Oh, it’s herbal, it’s sweet. Oh. It’s so soothing as well. And then we have the sandwich. Check out the inside. Oh, just nestled in there, the hard-boiled egg, the beans, the onions, and all those sauces, the mix of chili and mustard. Here we go. Wow, as you get to the core of that sandwich, you keep biting in, you start getting more into those black-eyed peas and the egg and that mixture. You taste the flavor combining together. It's simple, it's humble, but it's really tasty, and it's nice to sit down for a calm breakfast in the quiet neighborhood before we move on to the true energy of Dakar. Before my next meal, I'm heading to the beach with a friend to find the day’s freshest fish. [Fatou Bintou] Hi, Mark, hello. [Mark] Hi, Fatou Bintou. Nice to meet you. Fatou Bintou started cooking for her friends using her traditional family recipes, and soon she gained a reputation for her cooking skills. Where are we at? [Fatou Bintou] We are at the Yoff Fish Market. We're here to buy some fresh fish, coming straight from the sea to make some thiéboudienne. [Mark] On Dakar's northern coast is Yoff, home to a vibrant fishing community. And every day, according to the tide, fishing boats land on the beach, bringing in their fresh catch. -Is this tuna? -Yeah. Tuna. [Mark] Look at, this is what they caught today, the fresh catch of the day. So it looks like they caught a lot of tuna. [Fatou Bintou] Yeah, they catch a lot of tuna today. [Mark] And then luckily some of the red snappers. And is this the best fish for thiéboudienne? [Fatou Bintou] Yes. [Mark] Can't wait to try it. Okay. Later on, Fatou Bintou will be using the fish to make thiéboudienne, the national dish of Senegal. But for now, it’s time for lunch. Along this lane here in the market, you're gonna find a number of ladies who come and sell a variety of different Senegalese dishes. And so you order, then they start scooping out. There’s rice, there’s so many different dishes. You smell the onions, and then you can also see all the bright chili peppers, which are called goana locally. So we're gonna order a couple of dishes, and then I’m gonna find a seat. Lunchtime in Dakar. Sandaga Market is a lively shopping district in the heart of Dakar, where people come to buy everything from clothes to herbal medicine. And it also happens to be a popular place to search for a quick and tasty meal. Nanga def, nanga def. Hey! [Mark] Nice to meet you. Thank you. [Mark] Thank you very much. Hey, nice to meet you. [Woman] Nice to meet you. [Mark] Nice to meet you, nice to meet you. Do you come here to eat often? [All] Yeah. [Mark] What’s the best dish here to try? [Man] Thiou curry. [Mark] What do you like? The thiou curry, thiou curry. Oh, thiou curry, that’s the one with the onions, right? Ah, okay, okay. [Mark] With the goana, yes! [Mark] Absolutely, we need to have the goana. Say hello to the ubiquitous goana, a cousin of Scotch bonnets and habaneros, these bright colored West African chili peppers are fiery hot and generously used within Senegalese cooking. Bite into one of these with caution. Jerejef. Here it comes. Oh-ho-ho-ho. Oh, I got the super-sized plate. That’s the goana right there. So this one is the thiou curry, right? [Man] It’s the thiou curry. [Mark] Is it with beef? [Mark] That’s with beef. -And the goana. -Yeah, the goana. [Mark] Yes. They're some of the best chilies on Earth. Okay, here we go. I'll try the thiou curry, thiou curry, with that onion sauce, look at that onion sauce. Oh. Oh, wow, that’s phenomenal. The onions just melt in your mouth. They’re stewed down so they have this sweetness to them. You taste the spices in there, but I know how to make it even spicier. Gotta take a little bite of the goana. [Mark] Oh, yeah. Oh, wow, that’s spicy. You can feel it all the way down your throat. It’s hot. That fruitiness comes out and then it hits you in the back of the throat with that heat. Oh, that's so good, but it needs to be used sparingly, or you’ll be just drenched in sweat. And if you move over here, we got some of the pieces of the beef with the onion sauce. That is phenomenally tasty. It’s all about the onions in this dish. Mmm. And of course the goana. [Mark] So good. Yeah, I do want to try some of that, too. Another pepper sauce on the table. Looks like there’s lots of onions in here as well. [Man] Yes, yes. [Mark] Add a little bit of this pepper sauce, then you can add some lemon. [Man] Pepper, yeah. [Mark] And then we go in again with that other pepper sauce. [Mark] Wow. [Man] Wow. [Mark] Wow, that is... From that goana, my mouth is on fire, and with that chili sauce, that even bumps it up another notch. It's like onions on top of onions, on top of onions that are just powering this dish. It is unbelievably tasty. An absolute must try when you're in Senegal, and my mouth is on fire. Oh, this is a stall selling all sorts of Senegalese herbs and medicinal things and spices. And I just noticed something that I have seen. -Oh, hello. -Hello, my friend. [Mark] Oh, what is that? [Vendor] This is the African toothpaste. [Mark] Nice. [Vendor] Yeah. Very important. [Mark] Okay. Can I try one? [Vendor] Yes. Why not? Which one you want to try? [Mark] Which one? I want the, a big one. Here we go. This is good. And so I just put it in my mouth and chew it? [Vendor] Not a problem. [Mark] Okay, here we go. [Vendor] You're welcome. [Mark] Oh, yeah, it’s pretty, pretty tough. It is a straight up, like, piece of wood. Commonly known in Africa as the toothbrush tree, these unassuming little sticks contain natural disinfectants and fluorides. Oh, and you just gotta keep on chewing it? [Vendor] Yeah, very important because it makes it clean and also gives you good health. [Mark] Oh, nice, so it's not only a toothbrush, but also medicinal benefits as well. And actually, when I've been walking around the streets of Dakar, I've noticed a lot of people that are just walking down the street, chewing on one of these sticks. [Vendor] Yeah, it's very important because it gives you also concentration. [Mark] Okay. It has this bitterness to it, but in a good way, it’s not overpowering. But at the moment, I think we're gonna have to, like, keep on massaging it, kind of biting it, chewing it, until it loosens up. [Vendor] This one is for you, it’s a gift for you. [Mark] Oh, wow. Oh. [Vendor] Yes, yes. Gotta stay hydrated. After a lot of action, I'm heading to a completely different place for another essential Senegalese dish. So step off the hot and busy streets of Dakar, and you step inside a beautiful courtyard, an oasis of peace and greenery. There’s a tree inside of here, the natural light coming in. Originally from the islands of Cape Verde, restaurant Chez Loutcha began in 1969, now run by the third generation, known for their authentic homestyle Senegalese food. I got three different dishes to try, including this amazing shrimp over here. But first, let’s begin with mafe. And mafe is another important Senegalese dish. It is a peanut stew, and I got it with beef. There’s a goana in the center. Look at that richness of that stew. Pieces of beef, let’s try to-- oh, oh, that’s not beef. I think that’s cabbage. Okay, we’ll try a piece of beef first. The tenderness of this beef, get some of that sauce. Oh, see how thick and how rich that is? Ah. Ever since I was a kid, I've had this dish before, and I’ve always loved peanuts. And also that rich flavor that it provides. It has this tomatoey acidity to it. You can taste the sweetness of the onions in there. A gentle, mild amount of spice, but it's all about the peanuts in there, the tender beef stewed down. Absolutely sensational. But let's move on to the next dish, which is called soup kandja, and it is an okra stew. There's a mix of beef, there's seafood on top, there’s a whole crab sculpture on top. You see that really red oil, which is palm oil. That’s gonna give it a really nice flavor as well. Oh, the aroma. Kind of smells like some salted fish as well in here. Oh, all sorts of goodies. Pour that on, let’s just try that okra first. Mmm. Mmm. You have a dried fish in there, and then you've got the texture of the okra, that sort of stickiness in your mouth. Mm, okay, we’re gonna just go straight in for that crab. Yeah, look at that. Oh, the crab juice, part it, part the crab. Oh, the roe just squeezed out. I'll dip that to that palm oil. Mmm, mmm. Oh, the crab absorbed. Feels like it's been boiled within that okra, so it's juicy, and it just absorbs all that flavor. Okay, and then a little bit of that goana, and we will dig down, mix it with the rice. That makes a perfect sauce to coat the rice. Oh, yeah, and with that goana, that bumps up the flavor. So, this is yassa shrimp. Yassa is another favorite Senegalese dish that includes lots of onions. If you see it close, it literally is an entire bed of onions, which have been stewed down. They look like they’re gonna melt in our mouth. And then it’s soured with usually lime juice. And then this one, you can get it with chicken, you can get it with beef, but I chose the shrimp. Looks like the shrimp have been grilled, and then combined on a bed of onions. But I think the first move to do is let’s part the shrimp. Let’s try the onions first to ease our way in. Onions onto the rice, sprinkle with the lime. Okay, it’s pure onions. The onions melt in your mouth and the sweetness of those onions. And then I’m just going in for this. Rub it around in that sauce. I want it to absorb as much of that onion juice as possible. Okay, and here we go. Maybe remove the head. That way we'll get all that juice, be able to suck it all out. Oh, the garlic. I think the shrimp have been marinating in garlic, and the onion juice, and that squeeze of lime. Not forgetting to chase with the goana. And dip it in the onions. That was a lot of goana. I love the different variety of dishes. A delicious place to eat local Senegalese food when you’re in Dakar. I'm on my way to the next place, but this time we’re traveling in style. [horn beeps] [horn beeping] Yeah, this is the best way to get around Dakar, Senegal. It’s called car rapide. And I'm holding on for dear life, but my friend Setti over here, he's just chilling, so casual. Hold on tight! I’m getting hungry. Let’s go to the next spot. We got the fish earlier today, and now I'm going to meet back up with Fatou Bintou and see how she prepares it. We've been invited to a local family home in Dakar now to prepare the thiéboudienne. And Fatou Bintou, can you tell me a little bit about thiéboudienne? [Fatou Bintou] Thiéboudienne is the part of Senegalese cuisine. It's literally rice and fish. But it’s more than just a meal for us. It’s a symbol of family, culture, and hospitality. [Mark] Thiéboudienne, also known as jollof rice, is the national dish of Senegal, and making it is no easy task. Oh, so those are little dried chilies. [Fatou Bintou] You can help? [Mark] Yeah, sure. I can help. The recipe is about as complex as they come. Salted fish wrapped in herbs for seasoning, tamarind, sorrel flowers, and goana chili peppers are all included. The marinated fish are poached in the broth. Separately, Fatou Bintou makes a sauce of onions and chili peppers sautéed with tomato paste. You can smell the aroma, the chili fumes. The rice is washed and steamed over the pot, absorbing the vapor, then all the fish and vegetables are removed and the par-steamed rice cooks within the broth. The presentation is equally as important. The cooked rice is topped with a selection of the vegetables, fish and sauce served on a tray for everyone to share. Now we are all sitting down to eat, beautiful colors, the ladies, their dresses, the thiéboudienne before us. Then I’m going to go right in for some of that fish. Oh, and you can see the marinade of that fish with that parsley and then mix it with the rice. Oh, wow. [Fatou Bintou] How is it? [Mark] Amazing. Such a harmony of flavor, like dozens, not even joking, dozens of different ingredients. And you can keep making handfuls, squeezing it, and making perfect bite combinations with the different ingredients, the varieties of ingredients with the rice. It’s a full family meal. It’s the greatest celebration of food in Senegal. -It’s good? -It's good, yes. -Do you like it? -Good, yes. -Thiéboudienne. [Mark] Known locally as charrettes, there's an estimated 7,000 horse carts on the streets of Dakar, one of the most affordable and fun ways to get around. After a fun and bumpy ride, I’m heading into Dakar’s busy streets. I think a little protein might be in order. This place is buzzing at night, and you smell the distinct aroma of grilling meat, pouring from the chimney and right outside the door. It’s not even firewood. There are entire logs, entire trees that they're burning on the fire right at the entrance. Let’s step inside. This is not your typical backyard barbeque. This is dibi, the freshest local lamb roasted in the flames of a raging bonfire fueled by entire burning trees. This is what everyone comes for, and this place, it’s one of the great grill houses, barbecues of Dakar. There’s an entire butchery where they have freshest lambs. You have to see the precision that he uses to chop up that lamb. And you just choose whatever part of the lamb you want, from the leg to the ribs. They have it all. They season only with salt, and it goes directly over the bonfire, and he roasts it over that flame. It's like a pick tool to just stir it around and poke it and flip it over. It embeds with that smoke. And then once it's ready, they chop it up into bite-sized pieces, cut it up, and then serve it to you with mustard sauce, with chili sauce, with onions, both roasted onions and raw onions all over. It’s an entire tray, a kilo of the freshest lamb. Grab a piece of that lamb. Oh, you can feel the tenderness in your fingers. Dip it into the mustard. The freshness of the lamb, the sweetness, and the smokiness. It’s embedded with the log, the intensity of the fire that gives it so much flavor. Oh, that is so tasty. I’ll dip it in the next sauce, an orange sauce. This one is bone-in. Oh. That one is like a spicy mustard. We get that extra flavor when it's on the bone, and the fat kind of just melting. And then there’s another brown sauce. Let’s try that one. Whoa. Wow. That one is salty, you taste the chili, a little bit of heat, but it’s that mustard that powers it, and that contrasts the smokiness of the meat. Here we go, here's a little, a little bone-in piece. The juiciness. It’s also cooked perfectly. And then paired with some of the onions. Whoa. I love everything about this place. And a lot of people get takeaway, but actually they have a sitting room in the back right next to the grill. So you still feel the heat of the bonfire. It's definitely sweaty in here, but you’re not going to want to go far if you love grills. This is the absolute meat paradise of Dakar. Every culture has a late-night food spot, when your mischievious stomach overrides your brain. And here in Senegal, it’s the tangana. Pape. [Pape] Mark. [Mark] Yes. How are you, man? [Pape] I’m good. I'm good. [Mark] Pape, he’s a guide. He’s been our fixer, but more than anything, he is a friend. [Pape] Yes. [Mark] He's responsible for making this entire trip happen with the connections. The amount of arrangement you’ve done, thank you, Pape. [Pape] I’m happy to serve you, to help you. [Mark] Thank you. [Pape] And Senegalize you. [Mark] Oh, thank you, thank you. [Pape] Welcome to Omar Tangana. [Mark] Omar runs this small neighborhood Tangana, what literally translates to "it is hot," an informal canteen serving hot, fast-cooked food with a shared table. Along with the food, it's a place people come to drink tea and chat with friends late into the night. That’s delicious. It has this thick, meaty broth. You can actually feel your tongue tingle a little bit from the black pepper. And then you have this kind of melt-in-your-mouth macaronis all at the same time. Wow. There’s so much black pepper in there. You can feel it going down your throat, yeah? [Pape] Burning for me. [Mark] It's burning, Pape? [Pape] Sweating now. [Mark] Yeah, that’ll make you sweat. [Mark] Jerejef, Omar. This is so tasty. Neex na, saf na. Oh! Delicious, spicy. [Mark] Those two words in Wolof... [Mark] ...that should be a combination of words that always goes together. [Pape] Oh, what is coming here? Oh, Pape. [laughs] [Pape] Something special coming. [Mark] Pape, what have you done? [Pape] Wow. [Mark] Yes. Brace yourself. Wrapped in an unassuming sheet of brown paper, lies a calorie-rich Senegalese meal with the power to fulfill your deepest late-night food fantasies. What is this? [Mark] Ohhh. Is that what's sitting right up there? [Pape] Brochette. [Mark] Oh, okay. [Pape] We call it dibi poulet. [Mark] Oh, there’s more. [Pape] French fries. [Mark] Oh, squirting on a bunch of sauces. Okay. Pape, should we just go in? [Pape] Go first. [Mark] Okay. I’m gonna get some of that, oh, piece of the lamb. Delicious. It's fatty and oily, salty, just about everything you'd want to be eating at a crazy hour late in the night. Pape, this is the type of food that you eat and you sleep, immediately. [Pape] Yeah. Completely. [Mark] There’s nothing else you could do? [Pape] I could knock out. [Mark] With that chicken. Flaming hot. Dip it in that mustard. [Pape] Chili pepper. [Mark] Chili pepper. [Pape] Mm-hmm. [Omar speaking foreign language] [Mark] Mmm. [Mark] Chicken is moist, full of flavor. Oh, it’s good. [Pape] This is kinkeliba, that help digest. [Mark] Yes. We need it. Yeah, that hits the spot. -But Pape... -Yeah. [Mark] Something that I've always admired about the culture in Senegal, anytime you have a meal, you share together with friends, with family. People come together. [Pape] Here we share everything. Around food, we open mouth and open mind. [Pape] And we solve all our problems that make the country stable. [Mark] Wow, that is powerful and well said. [Pape] And respect is very important. [Mark] And it all surrounds food. [Pape] Exactly. [Pape] Food connects the people. [Mark] Open mouths, open hearts. [Mark] Open mind. [Mark] Pape, that deserves a hug, man. [Mark] Thank you, Pape. Oh, man. [Pape] Always pleased to receive you in Senegal. [Mark] Wouldn’t want to be eating with anyone else. [Pape] Welcome home, always. [Mark] Oh, thank you, Pape. Dakar is a city full of life and color, and the food is packed with spice and flavor. But what I love most is that no matter where you eat, from a family home to a street food stall, you'll be surrounded by people who will welcome you like family. Good night from Dakar, and jerejef. My teeth actually feel really clean now, like, totally.